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Saturday, December 6, 2008

DTSI


DTSI technology is a powerfull technology for our new age bikes, the word DTSI means digital twin spark ignition system.in other bikes they only have a single spark plug which produces a spark only once in this process there are some mixtures of fuel and air which is left out but in dtsi engine it produses two sparks which helps in burning the fuel more efficently and it burns the mixture left out by the single spark which results into more power,acceleration and mileage.
It is controlled by electronic systems namely ,computerised direct ignition (CDI) and throttle response ignition control system(TRICS3)

BAJAJ XCD DTSI

BAJAJ XCD DTSi SPRINT

Bajaj XCD Sprint DTS

Just as TVS gets ready to launch its three valve 125 cc Flame, Bajaj is preparing to launch a 4 Valve DTS-i (its Digital Twin Spark Plug technology) based 125 cc XCD Sprint DTS-i..!!

The sprint has been designed to excite the 100-125 cc customer who is also looking for some "Speed-Masti". I was lucky to speak to the Brand Manager of the XCD who was present there today. The Max Power of the XCD Sprint DTS-i as told to me by him would be 12.5 BHP..!!
The Headlamp is a Work of Art and so is the "Sexy" looking LED Tail Light assembly. The whole package manages to give the XCD a "freaky" character.
Which means that the XCD Sprint will be the new Performance King in the 125 cc segment, overtaking the (11 BHP) Yamaha Gladiator..!!

125 cc Bajaj XCD Sprint DTSi
The launch of this product according to the brand manager of the XCD would be in the first quarter of 2008. That means roughly by March-April 2008.


Not only the XCD would be the most powerful in its class, I found the new XCD Sprint to be better and more radical looking than its rival, the TVS Flame.

Bajaj XCD Sprint DTSi
Except for the tank, the front mudguard and the turn blinkers, the XCD features a completely new bodywork.

The tank has attractive extensions which has a classy chrome strip running across its length. The top portion of the tank has a matt black plastic design element to it. The XCD Sprint DTSi has Gas Filled "Nitrox" shock absorbers, front disc brakes, a new digital speedometer and the back lit switches (with auto cancel turn indicators), which have also been taken from the bigger Pulsars.

Bajaj XCD Sprint DTSi
The side and tail panels are new and the footrests now are on an aluminium subframe. The XCD Sprint DTSi also features split rear grab rails and an exposed chain with a half chain cover. The XCD Sprint DTSi also gets a new handlebar with weighted bar ends.

Bajaj XCD Sprint DTSi

The "Freaky" LED Tail Lamp of the XCD Sprint DTSi


Bajaj XCD Sprint DTSi

125 cc Bajaj XCD Sprint DTSiThe only sore thumb in the entire visual package according to me is the old-chrome fuel filler lid.

BAJAJ PULSAR 220CC DTSI NEW PICTURES



clever strategy…

It’s a clever strategy followed by the manufacturers/film makers to familiarize their experiments (except the core) among common man before their big release. The interesting gain in this strategy is it also fetches the much needed hype. Bajaj has done the same for the pulsar 220cc DTSi FI – except the fuel injection and the rear disc brake other features such as tubeless tyres, oil cooled engine, digital console with amber back light, self canceling indicators, twin seats, split grab rail, exposed drive chain and no kick lever have become familiar through pulsar 200cc, discover 135cc also through media. Nearly after a year from the test run, Bajaj decides to launch the pulsar 220cc DTS-FI nation wide. Earlier, Bajaj periodically opened limited bookings in pune and tested the bike. It is believed that Bajaj has sorted out some issues associated with fuel injection, rear disc brake and front forks from the customers feedback and now the bike is despatched to the dealers for nation wide sale. Bajaj expects to sell 2000 units a month of pulsar 220cc DTS-FI and it has reworked the famous ‘hamara bajaj’ campaign with this bike. The hype has made pulsar 220cc already a hit among bike enthusiast but can it maintain the momentum after the launch. Let’s drive the powerful machine and find it!

Engine and powertrain:

The 220cc oil cooled, Digital Twin Spark Fuel Injection (DTS FI) engine produces an awesome power of 20PS at 8500rpm (though not comparable, pulsar 220cc is more powerful than thunderbird) and an incredible torque of 19.12Nm at 6500rpm. . Bajaj’s well proven exhausTEC (to beef up low-down power) features in pulsar 220cc too. Pulsar 220cc features the standard five speed gearbox with one down and four up pattern. Oil cooler placed just below the fuel tank helps in further cooling of engine lubricant and keep this high performance engine cool. A six speed gearbox like other international bikes could have been better. Thanks to the fuel injection for the gentle release of power which enables smoother acceleration also minimal power loss while shifting gears. Pulsar DTS-Fi can reach 60kph in 4.4 seconds and can past 110kph in 18.8sec. Pulsar 220cc can reach a top speed of 131kph. But not alone this top speed is impressive; you can easily maintain the pulsar 220cc in 100 -115kph. Though the fuel efficiency/mileage depends on riding behavior you can expect anything more than 35kpl from pulsar 220cc DTS FI. Bajaj is offering impeccable warranty for its pulsar 220cc - the DTS FI engine has been given 5yrs warranty in addition to the 2yrs or 30000km vehicle warranty.

Styling and Engineering:

Pulsar 220cc is the most stylish bike available in India. Though it resembles its siblings in most sense the voluminous front fairing and the fairing mounted mirrors distinct the pulsar 220cc from others. Surely another eyecatcher from bajaj through pulsar 220cc with six spoke alloy wheels, stylish body panels, clear lens indicators, exposed chain and the diff. Like its family members, pulsar 220cc is equipped with highly digitized –Except for the tachometer, everything else including fuel gauge, speedometer, odo and two trip meters finds place in the orange glow of the digital read. Pulsar 220ccDTS FI features “health” indicators - a choked air fuel indicator, high oil temperature indicator, low battery voltage indicator, low engine oil level indicator and engine malfunction indicator. The pulsar 220cc DTS-Fi features car-like self-cancelling turn-signals and backlit switches. Similar to its sibling just launched Pulsar 200cc, the pulsar 220cc DTS FI bike throws away the kick lever and makes you to crank the engine only with your thumb. However starting the bike when the battery is dead it can be done by push-start method. A battery-saving feature trips a circuit when the self-starter is engaged for too long and the headlamp shuts by default when the starter engages. Pulsar 220cc DTS FI also features a low maintenance battery i.e. battery level top up/voltage check requires once in a year only. Pulsar 220cc employs twin 55W headlamp – high beam is a parabolic lamp and low beam is an ellipsoidal projector lamp. Additional advantage as it is powered by direct current there is no fluctuation and thus constant illumination at all conditions. The stepped seat is adequately padded for both rider and pillion and ends in a smart two-piece grab bar. Pulsar 220cc DTS FI offers a little under-seat storage cubby that can be unlocked via a cable release located under its lockable side panel. A massive stainless steel and alloy silencer adds a zing to the pulsar 220 along with the generous use of alloy for its rims, steering head, footrest-mounts and fuel-filler lid.

Ride and handling:

The wheelbase has been lengthened to 1,350 mm from 1,330 of the older Pulsar, along with a new swingarm. Pulsar 220cc DTS-Fi uses telescopic forks at the front and Gas-charged twin shocks are used at the rear. A twin-member tubular frame and an elliptical swingarm mounted on needle roller bearings. This combination gives a good blend of stiffness and flick ability for the bike though pulsar 220 weighs 150kg. MRF tubeless tyres —90/90 x 17 inches at the front and 120/80 x 17 inches at the rear provide good support and traction control for pulsar 220cc DTS Fi. This high performance bike is the india’s first bike to have a rear disc brake although this will help for the effective control, safety in Indian conditions is yet to be seemed.

Price and colour:

Pulsar 220cc DTS FI is offered in silver, blue and red. Pulsar 220cc DTS FI is priced differently for each of its limited bookings. Finally it is priced Rs81,280(ex-showroom price) in delhi. I believe Bajaj plans to sell 2000 units a month and if pulsar 220cc goes well as bajaj expects it will increase the price by few thousands. So if you planned one it’s the right time to get one. Pulsar 220cc is better priced, highly featured, superbly powered and controlled excellently. Pulsar 220cc DTS FI doesn’t have any serious competitor actually. It is damn sure that Bajaj’s pulsar 220cc DTS FI will set a new tone to Indian motorcycle industry. Although pulsar 220 will satisfy the long lasting hard core enthusiast’s aspiration it is to be seen whether this kind of bike is suitable for India conditions. When queried about Yamaha’s performance bikes in India YMI CEO replied performance bike can build the brand only the commuter bike can bring volume. But Bajaj continues to work on performance bikes whereas its arch rival Hero Honda is following a complete different strategy it continues to offer commuter bikes. Who has the better understanding of the Indian customers? Whether Bajaj can fool everyone’s suspicion? For answers we should wait!

BAJAJ DISCOVER DTSI 135CC BIKE


The 125cc bike segment is seeing new design and new launches, be it Honda CBF stunnner 125cc or TVS flame. Hence to just remind and boost up its bike sales in this segment, Bajaj has launched new revamped and new feature rich Bajaj Discover 135cc Sports variants with 2 other variants of same.

The bike is priced between Rs 46,248 and Rs 51,895 (ex showroom Delhi). The bike has many new exciting changes mostly about looks and fairing. The new discover features cool front tank mounted cowl with indicated indicators. The bike now sports digital speedometer. While the sports version will have disc breaks as well as wider rear tyre, it will also have Nitrox suspension.

It may be because bajaj noticed that their bike like discover were lacking behind design and aggressive styling after launch of new motorcycles in same segment by competitor manufacturer. But over all, it will surely help to increase their sales to some extent.

DUCATI 1098

The Ducati 1098 was built using superior race technology and then given the tweaks necessary to allow it to be used on the road. Trademark Ducati features like the high tail rear and unique front end aerodynamics give it the unmistakably gorgeous looks we are accustomed to when reviewing a Ducati.

The sizzling looks are important but are nothing without performance; underneath the sizzling body is an engine that is quoted by Ducati to be the The most powerful , lightest L-Twin in history and consequently the 1098 is also the fasted Ducati street bike ever made. This was made possible by reducing the weight of the main components and adding them to their record breaking Testastretta Evoluzione engine design.

The Ducati 1098 also has also been given extra stopping power with the addition of Brembo Monobloc brakes, which give it outstanding braking ability and also the weight saving single- sided swing arm. Another first is the integrated data acquisition system and information rich instrumentation, which both come straight from the Ducati Moto Gp racers.

You can see immediately that that this is a thoroughbred race bike and loaded with attitude. The shape and contours mold the rider into the form of the machine, which automatically gives it the best aerodynamics imaginable; It exudes quality and breeding whilst giving the feeling of power and performance with every twist of the new elliptical throttle.

In addition to the standard machine, Ducati have two other awesome models:

The Ducati 1098 S flagship model adds a host of high quality special parts compared to the standard machine. High spec Ohlins front forks feature low-friction sliders and sport the latest mono bloc caliper mountings working on twin front discs. It also sets a new standard for lightweight performance; it addresses this important area by mounting Marchesini forged and machined wheels, reducing weight by 4lbs. The weight reduction makes a huge difference to the handling as the front and rear wheels are now super lightweight. The weight reduction is also helped by mounting a carbon fibre front fender, front mudguard and cooling ducts

The Ducati1098 S is also comes with the Ducati Data Analyzer system which is standard equipment. The Data Analyzer allows you to retrieve data so you can analyze the data collected from your previous track session or road trip. The DDA package also includes software for your personal computer on CD, together with a data retrieval USB key and instructions.

The third option in the range is the Ducati 1098 s Tricolore, however it is a limited edition for 2007 only, The Triclor is available in an Italian flag inspired red,white and green colored theme. Ducati began the Tricolore tradition back in 1985 with the famous 750 F1 and then decided to theme the limited edition 851. The latest Tricolore 1098 S not only has a special paint job but also boasts additional features of frame and wheels finished in traditional racing gold colours. It has also been given a power-increasing 102 dB Termignoni racing muffler kit with dedicated ECU.

If your looking for a race inspired motorcycle this has to be he one; Ducati have certainly been able to capture the excellent speed to weight ratio and Italian design expected from the many fans and have produced a future legend in the Ducati 1098.

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

BRAND NEW HERO HONDA GLAMOUR FI

Hero

Its 124.8cc 4-stroke single cylinder OHC produces maximum power of 6.72 kw (9 bhp) @ 7000 rpm and maximum torque of 10.35 Nm @ 4000 rpm.

For injecting requisite amount of fuel, this bike is equipped with advanced computer PROGRAMMED ELECTRONIC F is used for scanning engine operating conditions through sensors and providing input to the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). This PMG-FI system is equipped with malfunction indicator lamp which starts flickering, if in this system any malfunctioning occurs.

It is available with RTMI or Real Time Mileage Indicator which indicates few important things like average mileage in last 10 seconds, distance traversed, amount fuel consumed etc. When bike knocks over, its ignition and fuel supply is being cut out by one of its very important safety feature i.e Bank Angle Sensor.

This Bike comes with different colors:

* Candy Blazed Red
* Black
* Myth Gold


TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF HERO HONDA GLAMOUR FI:

Dimension & Weight
Overall height: 1070 mm
Overall length: 2005 mm
Overall Width: 735 mm
Wheelbase: 1265 mm
Ground Clearance: 150 mm
Kerb weight: 125 kg (Kick), 129 kg (Self)
Fuel Tank Capacity: 12 Litres (Min)
Reserve: 1.5 Ltrs (Approx)

Engine
Type; Air Cooled, OHC
Stroke; (2/4) 4 Stroke
No. of cylinders; Single Cylinder
Bore x stroke; 52.4 mm x 57.9 mm
Displacement: 124.8 cc
Electrical: 12 V, 35 /35 Watt, Digital ignition
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Fuel system: programmed electronic fuel injection (PGM-FI)
Ignition:FULL TRANSISTERED IGNITION (FTP)
Clutch: Multiple Wet

Transmission
No. of Gears; 4 - Speed constant mesh

Performance
Maximum Power: 6.72 kW @ 7000 rpm
Max. Torque: 10.35 Nm @ 4000 rpm
Start: Self/Kick Start

Suspensions
Front: Telescopic Hydraulic shock absorber
Rear: Swing Arm with Hydraulic Shock Absorbers

Brakes
Front: Drum brake- Internal Expanding Shoe Type (130 mm dia) / Disc brakes 240 mm ; Liners-Non Asbestos Type
Rear: Drum brakes 130 mm dia. Internal Expanding Shoe Type (130 mm dia) / Disc brakes 240 mm ; Liners-Non Asbestos Type

Tyres
Front: 2.75 x 18 - 42 P / 4 PR
Rear: 3.0” x 18 - 52 P / 6 PR

The PACE:

If you read SPORT RIDER magazine, you'll read a lot about riding the PACE. Basically, the PACE is a rate of speed that is fun, yet safe. It takes into account road conditions, rider abilities, rider fatigue, etc.

On the track, I routinely ride at 100% of my ability. When I go to 101%, I'm rewarded with a slide down the pavement, and maybe a 4-wheeled ride around the track (in a vehicle with a little flashing red light and horns :-). On the street, the maximum level I ride at is 70 to 80 percent of my ability. Since I have begun racing, I notice that I may ride a little faster on the street, but I actually feel like I am going slower. Also, I notice that I don't need to take every corner at full speed. I'll never be able to take a corner like I do on the track, so now I don't even bother. I no longer need to get a "rush" from every corner. If you find yourself regularly trying to "hang" corners, it's time you get to the track!

Before I started racing, I was continually riding at about 90% of my ability. In fact, this was one reason I decided to start racing. That 10% reserve was too small, and I had several instances where I was right at 100%. I didn't go down, but it was far too close. Without the ability to go fast at the track, I was searching for that "rush" at every possible moment.

Another thing about the PACE, is that it means keeping the speed down on the straights. Any 'squid' can turn the throttle, but triple digit speeds tend to attract the boys in blue quicker than taking a corner at a nice pace. Use the straights to tighten up the group, and give everyone a chance to relax before the next section of corners.

CORNERING:

Cornering on the street uses all the same principles as on the track, but on a smaller scale. On the track, it is necessary to hang-off, so that your knee gets closer to the ground, and can act as a feeler. On the street, you should not be dragging your knee. If you are, you are too close to the maximum traction limits, and it is only a matter of time before you get 'bit'.

When you're on the street, you should stay fairly centered on the bike, with the balls of your feet on the pegs. Almost every stock sportbike can drag the pegs without losing traction. If your foot is hanging over the peg, and you need to lean further than usual, you could easily catch your foot and bend it backwards - causing you to crash.

TONYRACE5.jpg (6384 bytes)

As for leaning a motorcycle, most bikes will handle far greater lean angles than the rider is comfortable with. Keep this in mind when you're approaching a corner that you think you are not going to make. If you've been riding at 70-80 percent, odds are you can just lean the bike more, and look at your exit. The key is - DON'T PANIC.

LATE APEX: The apex of a corner is the point where you are closest to the interior of the corner. On the street, this would either be the center line (in a left), or the edge of the road (in a right). By using a LATE APEX on the street, you get to do more braking while straight up and down, you get a better view of the exit of the corner, and you minimize the amount of time you are near the edge of the road (or the centerline).

Things to look for in a corner are the camber or pitch of the road, the shape (increasing, static or decreasing radius), is it bumpy, is there debris, is the road clear, etc. To properly do all of this, you cannot be over 80% of your ability, or you will eventually get caught - i.e. you won't have time to react and you will dump or go head on into traffic. Leave yourself a reserve that is big enough to deal with anything - even a complete road blockage.


DON’T PANIC!

Practice, Practice, Practice, Practice...... Only when you continually practice maximum braking, emergency swerving, looking ahead, etc., will you not panic when faced with an emergency situation. Riding on the track will make you a better rider because you are constantly testing the limits of yourself and your bike. You will notice that you are much more confident at street speeds after you’ve been at the track. By incorporating these new skills into your street riding, you will be better prepared to handle an emergency situation. The trap you must avoid is doing everything on the street that you do at the track. At the track, you can push it to the limit, leaving virtually nothing in reserve. On the street, you should always leave yourself an “out”.

LOOK WHERE YOU WANT TO GO:

In racing, the motto is “look past to go past”. What this means is that if you are following someone that you want to pass, don’t look at him. Look at that little piece of track that he has left open, and go to it.

In an emergency situation on the street, riders often fixate on whatever it is they want to avoid. Since the tendency is to go where you look, this brings the rider right to the object. If you are practicing good street riding behavior, you will be constantly scanning the area around you, and continually providing yourself with escape routes.

If something suddenly appears in front of you, simply look to your escape route, and make the appropriate bar inputs (remember - COUNTERSTEER!)

GROUP RIDING

For me, riding in a group is much more fun than being out there alone - if the people in the group know what they're doing. The key to riding in a group is making sure everyone is on the same wavelength. To ensure this, discuss the ride beforehand. Go over the PACE, the stopping points, the route, etc. Also, if some members are not comfortable riding at the group's PACE, they should not try to keep up. The rest of the group should wait at all intersections.

If something is in the road, the first person to see it should stick an arm or foot out, if possible, point at it. All others should avoid the object and signal also.

GROUP LEADER: As the group leader, you should set a pace that is safe. See the PACE section for more on this. Also, be sure and let others lead after so many minutes or after a particularly fun section of road.

FOLLOWERS: When in a group, the standard rule is no passing unless waved on. This eliminates the competitiveness that sometimes arises on group rides. If the leader is setting a good pace, everyone should be happy playing follow the leader.

HINTS: DON'T DRAG YOUR BRAKES!! Others in the group have to deal with your brake light. You should approach the corner, apply your brakes if necessary to set your entrance speed, GET OFF THE BRAKES, and then begin turning the bike as you get back on the throttle to settle the bike for the corner. REMEMBER - ENTER SLOW to EXIT FAST.

CONTROL

One thing racing teaches you is to control your bike. I never realized just how much you can throw a motorcycle around without it biting you back. Don’t get me wrong, I am not recommending you go out and start weaving and swerving all over the place. You should, however, practice evasive maneuvers.

One that I like to do is driving straight toward a manhole cover, and swerving at the last possible instant. Your swerve should be a firm push on the bars one way, quickly followed by a firm push in the opposite direction. Do not switch lanes - simply miss the manhole cover or paper or whatever you have chosen. If you have chosen a manhole cover, make sure you don't make the hard input while you are on it. They tend to be very slippery.

Also, I do not recommend doing this in traffic. It tends to scare the people around you, and can actually cause an accident if the car next to you also swerves.

COUNTERSTEERING:

Countersteering is the process of pushing the handlebars in the opposite direction you wish to turn. Whether you know it or not, you have been countersteering if you ride a bicycle or a motorcycle.

To practice countersteering, go to an open lot. Accelerate to 30 mph or so, and remove your left hand from the bars. Now, gently push your right hand forward. The bike will automatically “fall” to the right. PUSH RIGHT - GO RIGHT. PUSH LEFT - GO LEFT.

Countersteering does not bring you around the turn so much as it “initiates” the turn. Once the bike begins to “fall in”, you then make the necessary bar and body inputs to control the turn. You also use countersteering to pull out of a turn. Next time you’re on an on-ramp, you can practice this. As the road begins to straighten out, accelerate and push on the bar in the direction you want to go, which will most likely be to the left. You are making a right turn, but to merge with traffic you want to go left, so you will PUSH on the LEFT handlebar.

Countersteering is a much more effective way to steer a motorcycle than shifting body weight. If something suddenly enters your path, and there is no way to stop in time, countersteering may save your life. The trick is to look past the object to your escape route, and to quickly countersteer in the proper direction. Many new riders, and even seasoned riders who do not practice countersteering, will turn away from the object, which just brings them closer to it!!

DOWN SHIFTING

DOWNSHIFTING: When racing, it is necessary to downshift very quickly while braking hard. To match the rear wheel speed to the engine speed, riders will “blip” the throttle, thereby increasing the RPM’s slightly. "Blipping" the throttle simply means a quick rev. If you don’t blip the throttle, the rear wheel may momentarily lock up, increasing the possibility of losing control.

On the street, it is not necessary to blip the throttle in most instances. A slight opening of the throttle will usually allow the gears to mesh smoother, however. One thing that is important, is that you let out the clutch lever between each downshift. This allows you to take advantage of engine braking, and also assures you of being in the right gear should you need to accelerate quickly.

BRAKING TIPS

BRAKING: Effective braking is one key to going fast on the track, and is extremely important in your quest to stay alive on the street. The only way to improve your braking skills is to continually practice. This is one reason why racing or riding on a track is so beneficial - you are constantly using your brakes to their fullest potential.

The biggest question you must answer is whether you are going to use both brakes, or just the front. While most beginner riders rely heavily on the rear brake, it is fairly well known by now that it is your front brake that provides most of your stopping power. The reason for this is that during heavy braking, very little weight remains over the rear wheel, and it is very easy to lock up. The front wheel meanwhile, has most of the weight, and can therefore be subjected to a hard squeeze on the lever. Notice I said SQUEEZE and not, GRAB.

When I am racing, I only use the front brake. I have tried using both, but the trouble I seem to get into is not worth the potential gain. I realize that most of the very top riders use both brakes, but I had trouble modulating both levers while doing everything else that is necessary to set up for a corner.

Anyway, it is a personal choice. Try it both ways and use what is best for you.

Proper braking technique when using only the front brake:

1- roll off the throttle
2- “settle” the front end by applying moderate pressure
3- squeeze the front brake lever firmly, decreasing pressure as you slow down.

NOTES: Settling the front end is the process of transferring weight to the front wheel. Once there is a forward weight bias, you can squeeze the brake lever very firmly. As your speed decreases, the amount of force on your front wheel decreases, and you need to reduce lever pressure to avoid locking up the wheel. Do NOT worry about flipping over the handlebars. It takes a certain skill to do a "stoppie". IT WILL NOT HAPPEN BY ACCIDENT.

stoppie.jpg (13409 bytes)The higher your speed, the harder you can squeeze the lever without risk of locking up the wheel. If you feel the wheel lock up, quickly reduce pressure momentarily, and then continue to squeeze firmly. You don't need to completely let go of the lever, simply reducing the pressure will allow the the wheel to regain its traction. Never jerk the lever back. Always squeeeeeze!!

Proper braking technique using both brakes:

1. Roll off the throttle;
2. Apply the brakes simultaneously to settle the bike;
3. Increase front lever pressure as you decrease rear pedal pressure;
4. As your near a stop, decrease front lever pressure and increase rear pedal
pressure, if necessary.

NOTES: When you initially apply the brakes, there is almost a 50/50 weight bias. As most of your weight transfers to the front wheel, you must lessen your pressure on the rear pedal, or it will lock up. In order to continue stopping, however, you must increase front lever pressure. As you near a stop, your weight begins to transfer backwards, and you can once again apply more pressure to the rear.

When the expert riders at SPORT RIDER did a test, they got the following results:

REAR BRAKE ONLY: 289 FEET
FRONT BRAKE ONLY: 151 FEET
BOTH BRAKES: 146 FEET

As you can see, there is a big drop going from REAR ONLY to FRONT ONLY, but a much smaller drop going to BOTH. Once again, its up to you to decide.

Proper, hard braking is the key to fast lap times on the track. On the street, knowing how quickly you can stop can save your life (or at least your bike).

Other braking tips:

  • Maximum braking can only be done while straight up and down.
  • If you are in a corner and need to scrub off a lot of speed, remember
    this saying -
    STOP TURNING and START STOPPING. Once your
    speed is under control, quickly begin turning again.
  • On the street, leave yourself an out. Don’t go into a corner so fast that if the road
    is blocked, you will not be able to come to a stop.
  • The same procedures work if it is raining. I tend to use a little more rear brake when
    I am riding on the street in the rain. On the track, I still use all front brake.
  • Practice your braking. Go to an empty parking lot. Make sure there is not a lot of
    sand or debris, and try to avoid painted lines. Pick out two “lanes”, and go back
    and forth, each time trying to stop a little sooner. Try using one brake, then both
    brakes.
  • Decide how many fingers you want on the brake lever. Most racers use only the first
    two fingers. This provides ample power, but still leaves them two fingers to
    “blip” the throttle. This is when you crack the throttle slightly before each downshift
    to better match the engine speed with the rear wheel.

Scrap Metal Model Motorcycle, Racing Bike


Place of Origin:Factory locate in Pattaya, Thailand
Brand Name:MASKMODEL
Model No:DA-05
Detailed Product Description
We produce arts from used auto parts almost valueless both from car, motorcycle, boat and others old engine parts.
Bearings, spark plug, gear, bolts, nuts, screws and others used auto parts have been re-created by our skillful welders with just a normal electric welding technique.
All of them are handmade piece by piece, you can feel a touch of feeling of life and the spirit of artists who created those work.
We call this style is junk-art model.

Disclaimer: Each model are handmade and might look slightly different than the one shown in the image.

FUTURE YAMAHA INDIAN BIKES


YZFR15 Green




YZFR15 Black




YZFR15 Blue




FZ150 Red




FZ 150 Black




YZFR15 Totaly Sporty

FINALY TVS FLAME LAUNCHED IN INDIA

Flame sports a new design and embraces the contemporary black theme. Flame borrows the headlamp,front fender, attractive rear view mirrors, body coloured shock absorber springs and special engine cowl from its big brother apache. TVS 125cc Flame is packed with exciting features like attractive body graphics, alloy wheels, disc brake at the front, electric start and handle bar weights to control vibrations.




The Flame is technologically the most advanced motorcycle in the country with a 3-valve 125cc engine and sports the india’s first three-valve CC VTi (controlled combustion variable timing intelligent) engine. The engine’s produces maximum power of 10.5 bhp at 8,250 rpm. TVS has patented the CC-VTi technology in Austria and rest of the world. It has sporty deltaedge exhaust that is not just a styling element but also to deliver the smoothest of sounds,lowest emissions and excellent performance.

Flame has been designed to capture attention in one go. The bike has been given a contemporary urban look by having a black theme. Much of its features like headlamp, front fender, attractive rear view mirrors, body colored shock absorber springs and special engine cowl are designed like the Apache.



It features an analogue speedometer but other gauges such odometer,digital clock, fuel gauge, mileage meter are embedded in the digital console. The sporty deltaedge exhaust is not just styling element but also to deliver the smoothest of sounds, lowest emissions and excellent performance. also sports a neat lockable, water-bottle-sized cubby hole ahead of the tank, which will prove really useful in daily use. The plastic tank adornments incorporate the indicators and complete the look, but they have their own utility value too.



Technical Specifications:

Engine: 124.8cc, CCVTi
Power: 10.5bhp@8250rpm
Torque: 10nm@6250rpm
Weight: 121.00
Clearance: 165.00
Fuel Tank: 8.00
Wheelbase: 1320.00
Gears: 5 Speed
Top Speed: 95
Brakes: Drum 130 dia / Disc 240 dia
Fuel Economy: 85



Features:

Self Start:Yes
Stand Alarm: Yes
Alloys: Yes

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